My Gear Guide: Tools I Use to Capture the Night Sky
My Astrophotography Gear Guide: Tools I Use to Capture the Night Sky
Astrophotography demands patience, planning, and the right tools. Over the years, I’ve refined my kit to suit the unique challenges of shooting in the dark—especially from remote locations across the American Southwest. In this post, I’ll break down the essential gear I use to capture the Milky Way, star trails, and deep-sky landscapes.
Whether you're just getting started or refining your own setup, here's a look at what’s in my bag—and why it matters.
Link to my Amazon Storefront for photography gear I personally have used!
1. Tripod: The Foundation
A stable tripod is non-negotiable for astrophotography. I use a carbon fiber tripod for a balance of lightweight portability and rigidity. Even the slightest movement can ruin a long exposure, so I prefer models with twist-lock legs and a wide stance for stability on uneven terrain.
If you are looking to include a star tracker in your setup I would recommend a tripod with thicker legs to give you more stability. The weight will increase but it is worth it for the improved stability that you will get, especially shooting in any windy conditions.
My go-to:
Benro has really good tripod options both for single shots of the night sky and for tracking. Photopro also has very good tripods.
Check out my Amazon Storefront link for some more tripod options.
2. Cameras: Full-Frame for the Win
I shoot on full-frame mirrorless and DSLR cameras, both for resolution and dynamic range in low light. The larger sensor in the full frame cameras enable them to capture more light during exposures. (more light=name of the game)
In camera bodies for lowlight photography you want to be mindful of the megapixel count of the camera sensor. The higher the megapixel count means the more pixels that there are in the sensor. While this does give you a lot more detailed of an image shooting at low ISOs, it will increase the noise that comes with shooting at higher ISOs. The lower megapixel count sensors (like 24 megapixels) means each pixel in the sensor is larger and capable of capturing more light.
Generally for lowlight photography the lower megapixel count cameras produce cleaner, less noisy images when pushing the ISO.
Primary bodies I use:
Nikon Z7II (high resolution + great ISO performance)
Nikon Z6 astro modded
I can tell a significant difference between the iso performance of the Z7II (45 megapixels) vs the Z6(24 megapixels) however I like this setup because it gives me the best of both worlds. Even with the higher megapixel count of the Z7II it still preforms very well in lowlight.
I have shot with Nikon my entire career, while they may not be the best camera option in terms of auto focus capabilities I really truly believe the colors that come from the Nikon cameras are superior to any other camera body. The control I have in post processing when pushing my files is unmatched, I have yet to edit any RAW files from other cameras that convince me otherwise.
The Nikon Z8 is also a very good option and preforms exceptionally in low light.
3. Lenses: Fast, Wide, and Sharp
A wide, fast lens is essential for astrophotography. I prioritize sharpness at wide apertures and minimal coma distortion in the corners.
Generally you will find that prime lenses are the sharpest and have the cleanest corners, however there are some very good low aperture zoom lenses out there now also.
Now-a-days lenses are very very pricey. It is always worth investing in good glass for your camera, arguably one of the most important pieces of equipment in photography. However, Sigma and Tamron, both third party lens companies, have very high quality options for almost half the price in some cases versus these big camera companies. These lenses are very good options and, in my opinion, provide some of the highest value for the cost.
Favorite lenses:
Nikkor Z 14-24mm f/2.8 S — crisp across the frame
Sigma 14mm f/1.4 — Incredible lens for timelapses of the night sky.
Tamron 35mm f/1.4 — great for tracked wide-field shots. I use this lens pretty much solely for all my tracked pano shots.
Rokinon 135mm f/2 — ideal for deep-sky and tight Milky Way core compositions
4. Star Tracker: Longer Exposures, More Detail
A star tracker compensates for Earth’s rotation, allowing for longer exposures without star trailing. This helps gather more light, reveal more detail in the Milky Way, and produce cleaner images with less noise.
The star tracker allows you to keep your ISO way lower and compensate for the loss of light with longer exposure time. Keeping your ISO lower will dramatically increase the detail that you can pull out, increase the dynamic range and color detail. Gives you way more control in post processing to push the files to their maximum capabilities.
My current tracker:
Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer 2i
It’s compact enough to carry into backcountry locations but precise enough to shoot 6-8 minute tracked exposures.
Another very good option that I’ve used:
This is a very similar setup to the Sky-Watcher tracker just a little bit more compact. Still a very good option and sturdy enough to track with larger camera and lens setups.
5. Panoramic Head: Precision for Wide Scapes
Most of my night sky images in the recent couple years have all been panos shot at around 35mm-40mm. Using this technique to shoot night sky allows you to produce a wide field image of the night sky while retaining incredible detail that you would not be able to with just a single wide field tracked shot of the milky way at 14mm or 20mm.
When shooting large Milky Way panoramas, a pano head is crucial. It allows me to precisely rotate the camera around the nodal point to avoid parallax distortion.
Why it matters:
Makes stitching panos together in post much cleaner
Perfect alignment across multiple rows and frames, easier in the field to orient your camera where you need to while on the tracker.
What I use:
Andoer PH-720B 720 — This is the pano head I primarily use, however there are a ton of options out there. I like this one because of the low profile build and it compacts fairly easily. A lot of the pano heads out there are very bulky and can take up a ton of space. This one is simple, straight forward and easy to use. Gets the job done, haven’t had any issues with it.
6. Intervalometer: Automation in the Dark
An intervalometer lets me automate long exposure sequences—whether it’s for a tracked panorama, star trail stack, or timelapse.
Why I use it:
Set-and-forget reliability
Manual bulb control for exposures beyond 30 seconds
Note: Many modern cameras have internal intervalometers, but I still carry an external one as backup. Sometimes the in camera intervalometer can be confusing to use, for me its just easier and more reliable to use the plug-in intervalometer.
I prefer plug in intervalometers, they seem to be a bit more reliable than anything wireless. Wireless intervalometers, for me at least, don’t really provide any more ease of use.
The intervalometer that I use: JJC Intervalometer
7. Laser Pointer: Easy Sky Alignment
When setting up the tracker or composing in pitch-black conditions, a green laser pointer helps with alignment.
Benefits:
Point out constellations quickly
Aid in polar alignment, assists in finding the north star through your trackers polar scope.
8. Accessories That Make a Big Difference
Headlamp with red mode (to preserve night vision)
Extra batteries (cold nights drain them fast)
Lens warmers or hand warmers (prevent condensation and dew in extremely cold weather)
Lens cleaning kit (essential for dusty or frosty nights)
Wrap-Up: Build a Kit That Works for You
This setup reflects my shooting style: portable, reliable, and ready for high-quality results in challenging conditions. I always suggest starting with the basics and upgrading based on your goals—whether that’s wide-field Milky Way shots or precise deep-sky imaging.
Want to see how this gear performs in the field? Check out my Instagram @imhoff.imagery or browse my portfolio for examples of what these tools can produce when paired with planning, patience, and clear skies.